Alpi Marittime backpacking trips
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Trips
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Getting info
I made a series of trips first in Mercantour, then in Argentera (now called Alpi Marittime parc) and Mercantour. As documentation on itineraries is not always easy to find, I choose to present some elements in this site.
-- 2009 Sabbione and Veil del Bouc
-- 2008 A trek around the Mercantour
-- 2007 A quick trip around the Gelas
-- 2006 Mercantour-Argentera: from Fremamorte to Col de l'Agnel
-- 2005 A short trip, mostly in Mercantour: Agnel/Valmasque/Merveilles -- lots of wildlife pictures
for now, just a teaser...
-- 2004 Broader horizons and wilder tracks: a trip back and forth across the border Col de la Ruine, Pagari, Lac de l'Agnel
-- 2003 A mostly classical trip, mainly along the GR
-- a first look into Mercantour through La Pointe du Diable
The equipment is pretty much the same as for Sweden, as the mountain environment (at altitudes ranging mostly from 2000 to 3000 m) can be either harsh or hot in late summer and at the begin of fall. Alone, JM uses the Hilleberg Nallo2 tent, and both the Nallo 2 and 3 for the trip with Kathleen and Glenn.
The only significant difference is the gas stove, as I prefer to take here one using the "Campingaz" (re-sealable) cans, instead of the similar "Primus" or "Coleman", as the former are normally more easily found locally (and none can be brought on the plane) -- the unit I am using (no longer produced) as a valve fitting on the can, and a foldable tripod supporting the burner; it is particularly stable.
(see however remarks on the 2006 trips about difficulties in finding gas cans)
WATER FILTER
Maybe some more light clothing is useful, but the main difference is in water treatment: here I always carry a ceramic filter (Katadyn Mini, the smaller model by Katadyn) - very small and providing high quality filtering, but somewhat cumbersome to set up -- so many things to hold, while pumping in a cramped position squatting on the bank of a stream or lake!
For the last trips, I have turned to the slightly larger KATADYN VARIO.
It offers a combination of ceramic (optional), fine fiberglass and charcoal filter.
More importantly, the pumping is a simple back and forth lever, and it screws onto the clean water recipient. Much easier to use, (and for 3 people, a real necessity).
It is in principle possible to empty the charcoal part (useless most of the time), to save weight, but I would not do without the ceramic prefilter!
Small problem: I bought probably an early version of the VARIO filter. On the day before last of the 2009 trip, the main axle broke at the end, where it is supposed to lock into the housing. The filter was still usable, but one had to watch for the axle position. I mentioned this to Katadyn, and they sent me (free of charge) a replacement part, which turns out to be much more sturdy(the initial one was made of plastic) -- I would recommend this filter very much but would advise you check this part before the trip !
For the itineraries used, snow/glacier equipment is not normally needed IN THIS SEASON. At a couple of places, cables may exist on left-over snow fields; some device to attach to them for safety may be wanted (I did not need it).
While I choose to travel in full autonomy (i.e. with food ), most mountain huts are open until late august or early September (check, see "how to get info"), and supply meals. Beware however that at peak times, they may be fully saturated, and often overnight stays are booked long in advance.
Photographic equipment is worth mentioning. As wildlife is REALLY abundant (mostly Ibex, Chamois, but also fox, hermine,...), and not approached easily, it makes sense to pack some telephoto equipment (which would be avoided due to the weight in normal times) . I have tried various combinations, either with argentic or digital Nikon's (F65 and D70):
first 180mm f 1:2.8, then the same with focal doubler,
and later (2006) a small Tamron 70-300mm zoom (lighter, and OK for basic work, but probably not quite the same performance, -- although it is difficult to judge: as the light was considerably poorer this time, and closing the diaphragm by one stop makes a whole of a difference). I now use the same lenses (hope to turn to a stabilized zoom some day) with a better resolution Nikon D200. The camera is a bit heavier (most would rightly prefer an equal resolution lighter Nikon -- I just cannot afford 2 cameras ), but fairly robust.
Here again, I should refer to the "sweden" pages, as the basic ingredients are the same. I just noticed that I tend , as a safety, to take proportionally more food, partly because the terrain is more exhausting, maybe also because this is usually my second trip in close succession (and reserves have not been re-built!) : for instance 1 "spaghetteria" per person instead of 2 for 3. I also pack an ample supply of dry food (tropical fruit mix, hazelnut biscuits, nuts mix) which also serves as a safety. On the other hand, those less interested in autonomy could of course make use of the refuges -- with the exception of Pagari (where camping would be difficult, and the vegetarian cooking is worth the experience), for my part, I feel however that this breaks my rhythm.
A first incursion was made with Kathleen,
In the following years, I travelled alone (not a think I advise, for obvious reasons of safety, and in particular off the main routes). However it must be said that spending a week in total autonomy (and almost in total solitude) in the mountain is also a memorable experience.
More recently, Michael has joined in 2007, and Kathleen and Glenn in 2009.
Alpi Marittime Park - english version
Most of the Italian mountain huts (refuges) have a stable phone connection, and can be contacted directly , also for advice:
Hotels and mountain refuges (Italy)
In particular, Alladar (the keeper of the Pagari refuge) is a well-known figure,
and has contributed to many maps and itineraries - he speaks also French and English,
and is of excellent advice for routes (and their practicability according to the season) in the area. This is the only refuge where I stay by choice (and I enjoy his particularly tasty vegetarian cooking , a living proof that refuges can serve something else than stews...). Alladar is a legend by himself (and his stays in Himalaya have also prompted some Buddhist references in the surroundings), and the best source of info I know of !
Refugio Pagari (Refugio Federici Marchesini al Pagari)
Park contact Offices (Entracque, Valdieri ...
In Termi di Valdieri, I used the "Albergo Turismo" (see link at the bottom of the 2009 page and comments about housing earlier in August)
Tourism office Entracque
They should be contacted for details of bus schedules (and, almost more
importantly , closing dates for some routes), as end of august / early september
is a critical period for most routes
On the French side, you can find some info about bus routes from:
Bus services Alpes Maritimes (routes) , planning your trip
Note however that the route calculator does not always take into account closing
dates (late august) for some tourisitic routes, best to check them with the first link,
and to confirm with :
"gare routière de Nice": phone + 33 - (0) 4 93 85 61 81
note : I had the surprise in 2006 that all bus fares within the Alpes Maritimes sponsored area are at 1.3 € -- one exception being the express bus from Nice airport to the city, where a higher fare (corresponding to a day pass to all Nice transport) is charged
Office du tourisme de Tende
For the amazing train route (with a large number of helicoïdal tunnels) from Nice to Italy through the "col de Tende" , some timetables can be found from
SNCF schedules site (for the -scenic- train between Nice and Tende , then to Italy )
(note that not all the trains are listed in a straightforward way, a number of additiional connections go through Ventimiglia-Cuneo-Torino line )
Note that the Italian side can easily be reached fromTorino (airport, then the Torino-Cuneo-Ventimiglia line) , and busses from Cuneo or Burgo San Dalmasso to Valdieri, Terme di Valdieri, Entracque -- simplest is to get info from Tourism office Entracque
Parc du Marcantour (I experienced problems connecting with open-source browsers)
non-web coordinates :
23, rue d'Italie
BP 1316 - 06006 NICE cedex 01
Tél.: + 33 (0) 4 93 16 78 88
Fax.: + 33 (0) 4 93 88 79 05
Mail: mercantour@wanadoo.fr
A link to many french refuges in the area is available here; (many need to be booked well in advance, and for that reason are of little use to trekkers, also, most don't have a permanent phone line, but rely on a radio link with a contact in the "lowlands") I had however good experiences with the Refuge de Fontanalbe, although I moslty used the very nice tent site below, and only had snacks or light meals at the refuge). Beware also that some refuges may close unexpectedly: fon instance, the Nice refuge was under reconstruction during my trip in early september 2006, and not even a safety area was available.
Park rules
The most important regulation for us is about camping or bivouac:
As far as I understand (but it is always useful to check for the latest rules with the parc authorities) , bivouac (which may involve a small tent) is allowed in Mercantour park from 7pm to 9am, on the condition to be at least one hour from the park borders; (to fe fair , I should say that I checked with some guards, and they perfectly understand that if a storm is brewing at 4pm you don't wait to be drenched to set up your camp, but this may vary from individual to individual....)
There is an exception for the "protected area" (vallée des Merveilles and Fontanalbe), where bivouac is only authorised in a designated area close to the respective refuges.
Argentera mentions bivouac over max 2 nights, with the same 1 hour condition.
In all cases, open fires are forbidden (but a butane/propane stove is OK).